We stop for lunch at one of the island’s many restaurants. The decor has all kinds of crazy art, but this one I liked best. I don’t know if it was the baby doll’s head, the wine cork or the earbud that caught my attention, but I was digging the vibe.
A look into the Muslim cemetery on Guet Ndar.
The original bridge, built in 1897, was replaced over the past two years. I have not yet had a chance to traverse the new one, and I’m happy to see that the original architecture was retained.
For me this is the quintessential image of Senegal: watching men and women going about their day in pensive tranquility- with prayer beads in hand.
Back on the central island, you can still see vestiges of the city’s colonial past. My American travel companions remarked that the architecture of Saint Louis was reminiscent of New Orleans.
The beautiful mosque on the island has a somewhat eyebrow raising story. You see the clock located on the minaret? Apparently back in colonial days, the French governor was not keen on hearing the call to prayer, so he had them install a clock to let everyone know when it was time to pray. No comment on your comprehension of teranga, Mr. Colonial Frenchman.
Military zone, eh? I think the cartoon characters of this building add a nice touch.
Trotting over the small bridge to Guet Ndar, you start to feel like the pirogues outnumber the people. They really bring Saint Louis into impressive technicolor- even with this morning layer of fog shading the skies.
The military officer in me has to capture this memorial to Senegal’s war dead. I have written about the tirailleurs before, but during World War I alone, 72,000 colonial combatants gave their lives in defense of France.
Anyone who visits Saint Louis can see that there is a lot of untapped potential in terms of renewal. The old buildings provide a window into a past of former glory- and while the fishing industry is really big business in these parts (and thus takes precedence over gentrification), you kind of wish that things were better preserved. I don’t lose heart though, because a look around town shows new construction and friendly faces that make you look past the dilapidated state of most buildings. At least that’s the case for me.
I know, I took about a million photos of pirogues while on my run- but I just couldn’t help myself. As I continually sidestepped buckets of fish laid out on sidewalks, I got a real appreciation for how fishing is the lifeblood of this place.
As I traversed the three strips of Saint Louis land, I can tell you that I was the only toubab out on this Saturday morning. I saw lots of kids on their way to koranic school, as well as shopkeepers getting on with their day. I’m often asked if I feel unsafe or out of place living in Senegal- and I have to say that the answer is a resounding “no.” Especially with respect to running; the Senegalese are such a sporty bunch that when they see me out there with them, they take it as the most natural thing in the world that I should be out there too. I always feel completely accepted.
Leaving Guet Ndar, I hang a right and head for the southern point of the island. From here you get a good vantage point the river.
Back near my hotel again, I finish up my run with some of the ubiquitous island goats. There are so many things that I have come to take as commonplace in Senegal, and these guys are just one example.
And just because I am already nostalgic for Saint Louis, I have to go and throw in one more emblematic parting shot.
And in honor of two toubab friends who learned long before me how to unlock the magic of Saint Louis and Senegal, I stop by Aux Delices du Fleuve for a delicious pain au chocolat aux amandes. Jennie and Valeria, this one is for you. I finally get it!
