The rolling green hills that are practically trademarked in Ireland have plenty of competition up here in the northwest. Journeying a bit inland, it does not take long before you feel like you’ve been transported to a completely different country. Herein lies another compelling reason to wander around the four fields on multiple return trips…
You know you’re in the north when windbush covers the ground masquerading as the spiny and insistent cousin of the American dandelion.
And just a few minutes after leaving the coast, a dramatic terrain shift makes you feel like you are suddenly chasing across a high plateau landscape that feels vaguely reminiscent of Colorado.
Our short drive takes us to our main activity for the day: Glenveagh National Park.
Glenveagh (meaning glen of the birches) is a 16,000 hectare National Park located in the Derryveagh Mountains. It’s origins came about when a rather unlikeable chap named John Adair established the estate in 1857 and promptly became infamous for evicting 244 of his tenants so he could clear the land and enjoy unspoiled views. Jerk. Lucky for us, he died in 1885 and his much kinder American wife who took over and did a better job of running things. Figures. The gardens and castle were presented to the Irish nation in 1981 by Henry P. McIlhenny of Philadelphia who had purchased the estate in 1937. USA! USA! (just kidding)
Getting ourselves up to speed on the area’s history lesson, I enjoy a tasty snack of outstanding brown wholemeal bread in the estate’s tea room. This is my absolute favorite bread in the world, and I can never get enough of it when in town.
Lough Veagh comes into breathtaking view once you wander into the heart of the park grounds. My friend and I are completely gobsmacked as we wander about and witness expanses that are absolutely unreal. I can’t help but ask myself why it took me so long to get my ass up here.
In terms of trails, there are many options to consider when exploring the park. Aiming for maximum bang for our buck, we try our feet up the steepest trail. Already feeling well fortified by our tea break, we strike out for what promises to be a spectacular view. Even if the fine Irish weather keeps alternating between pelting rain and sunshine.
I’m pushing the fast-forward button in order to shove us all to the top of our little climb. The view, as anticipated, did not disappoint in the slightest.
More windy video! You’re welcome!
Behold Glenveagh Castle! “It’s only a model…”
Alas, the weather soon dictates that we must make our way back down to level ground once again. Our one year old travel companion is happily shielded in Olivia’s fine Macpac contraption, and she is unyielding in terms of safely negotiating steep terrain. What a great mom!
The park has an old sawmill, and the kid in me found this thing really cool to check out- I grew up going to a sawmill, and the distinctive smell has always stuck with me.
Back on the castle’s compound, I dry off from the rain and then head into its “back yard” to see what spring has coming up in the garden.
Through a wall at the side of the garden I soon discovered a completely different personality within the park. Here, modestly-developed landscape (much is left as it was found) shows the addition of a “Himalayan Lake”. Their term, not mine.
This place really does feel enchanted. I feel like I’m back in Sintra, Portugal.
Oh how I miss a proper spring while living in Senegal! These colors, viewed not even a week after Easter, really made me feel like life was in a healthy state of rebirth.
At this stage in our visit, Olivia and I had gone about our separate paths in order to explore our own interests. I knew that I needed to make my way back towards her, and I found a neat path that allowed the castle come into view through the trees. Don’t you always imagine that as a kid you’ll come across this kind of discovery while you’re out exploring in the woods? Glenveagh is made for just that kind of thing. Bring your kids!
Back at the castle, you can see that the sky has cleared (at least for the moment). It’s getting near departure time and I’m sad to leave after only just scratching the surface of this amazing and unspoiled place.
As I crossed paths with Olivia, I saw her coming into view with a big smile on her face and a very content sleeping baby. We were both ecstatic after making such an excellent discovery and all due back for a return visit very soon.
Especially after today, I really feel like the Irish Tourism Board would do well to have me as a part of their team. At the same time, I selfishly love the fact that this part of the world isn’t overrun with tour buses and Carrolls gift shops that blare Danny Boy and hawk clichéd tchotckes (which admittedly do have their place when it comes to gift shopping). Instead, out here you are only left with yourself and an authentic sense of peace that effortlessly makes you understand what all the fuss is about- from glen to glen, and down the mountain side.
