I left my heart in DĂșn na nGal

My Ireland blog entries are always composed with complete selfishness, because I know that they have nothing to do with Senegal or anything in the way of learning to grow as a person and professional whatever officer. Still, I can’t help but be drawn again and again to this island, and thus it is with great happiness that I find myself back again for an all-too-short stay with blissful familiarity.

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Actually, this trip was not going to be a rerun of things already explored. This time, I really wanted to go somewhere where I had never before been: County Donegal.

I’m a bit drawn to the northern part of this island- and I don’t think it’s because my closest friends come from this neck of the woods. I first discovered the northern coast and Belfast back in my college days- and ever since I have always been keen to return and look around a bit more. The people are lovely, and I am really taken with Antrim (Busmills notwithstanding). Despite my best efforts at continuing exploration, I had never made it to Donegal- the area of Ulster that would protrude quite oddly if the RTE weather reports were to discount Northern Ireland in its forecasts. Luckily for me, this trip would remedy that oversight.
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Here we are in a small town of Milford. I woke up in a small rented cottage shared with my friend Olivia and her firecracker son. As I looked out the window, the sunlight cast over the rugged green hills made me think of only one thing: I have got to go for a run in order to have a proper look around.

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You will probably be secretly happy that as I stepped outdoors, the beautifully sunny morning gave way to pelting rain after about a mile and a half of exploration. As I am continually pushing the limits of my camera with respect to the elements, I opted here to stop photographing muddy greenery and instead turn around and seek shelter back at the house.

At the cottage we showered and coffeed up before heading out on the road for a look around Donegal. There is so much to see up here, and we opted to take Fanad Drive for a look at the coast.

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This part of the country is another Gaeltacht region– and while I think it is fantastic that Ireland works to preserve its language, sometimes the helpful signs only leave me pronouncing the word and seeing if I can recognize the anglicized name. This really doesn’t work.


The coastal road would alternate between sun and clear vistas to whipping wind and rain in a matter of moments. It made for a very dynamic drive- one where I was grateful that Olivia was at the wheel. I’d probably have killed the lot of us.

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Here we are with what is supposed to be one of Europe’s most beautiful beaches in the background. Of course, you’ll have to take my word for it since our heads are blocking the lovely view. No matter, Olivia is much lovelier than the beach and just as Northern- so it’s a fine trade-off.

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We made it out to Fanad Head Lighthouse- by this point the sun was back out and the whole area looked more beautiful than a postcard. The more we saw, the more we were taken with this entire area.

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Lunch called for a stop at Rathmullen House- a really fabulous place that is popular for weddings. Down in the bar area we supped on some delicious mussels and then headed back outside and down to the main attraction of the property: the beach.

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If you know anything about me then you know that I love nothing more than ocean stretches in inclement weather. This beach had nothing but sunny rain, wandering families and catches of galloping horses going back and forth. I think I might have also sighted a woman breastfeeding a baby on the beach, but I have no further comment on that.


I know that my videos aren’t exactly documentary-ready, but I am always doing my best to convey the indescribably beauty of the neat stuff I get to see. Yes, I know that I am ridiculously fortunate.

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Here we have the happiest thirteen month old on the planet. His wordless enthusiasm for slapping around in the water perfectly captured how we felt about these environs.

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Olivia’s son has no idea how amazing his mom is for showing him so many amazing places from the very start of his young life. Actually, if you look at his smile- maybe he really does have some idea. That kid is incredibly sharp.

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I give you more gratuitous shots of the beach. We spent the afternoon walking the coastline and talking about life in general. Olivia is a friend from college, and even though time and space has separated us with our respective lives, she is certainly a person who I can always count on to provide good counsel. It’s not just the scenery of Ireland that keeps me coming back- it’s also the people I know.

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Call it ridiculous but as we were walking, this little zygote of a rainbow did indeed expand to a full arch. Our afternoon outside really ran the gamut of dramatic elements.

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After getting thoroughly soaked and sunned on, our evening winded down with wine and a soak in our own personal hot tub back at the cottage. Huge thanks to Olivia for scoring this cottage at the last moment! Our bodies felt completely rejuvenated, and ready for tomorrow’s adventure in Donegal.

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Today was one of those days where, as our car rounded each new bend, I could feel a distinct notch being carved into my heart. Life out here is still pretty wild and intemperate, and kinda like in Real Life you’ve got to weather the inhospitable lashes of foul weather if you want to experience the amazing parts. Accordingly, it also helps to share the adventure with good people who share in this sense of adventure.

I know that I’ve not yet transformed into a grizzled old windbag, but I’m definitely picking up a lesson or two as I make my way through my life. Today I was reminded that friends come and go- but even if they’ve been ten years removed, they can certainly return and fit right back into your life (or not). I think that this is one of the most pleasantly surprising aspects of growing up, and accordingly I am so grateful to have count friends like Olivia who are still ready as ever to share in whatever will come next.