Premier Tour: Senegal Presidential Elections

 The day before:

Photobucket
It’s February 25th, and I’m on my way to Thiès- a town located about sixty kilometers from Dakar.

A moment of high anticipation was realized this weekend in Senegal. Even before I moved here over two years ago, I knew that this month would be a significant milestone for the Senegalese and their enduring democracy. While presidential elections in any country are no small event, President Wade has been talking up his quest for Perpetual President for quite some time- and finally we were going to learn what his public really thought about this ambitious plan.

Photobucket
While on the road, we leafed through a couple of dailies in order to get our game faces ready what might be the most significant weekend in Senegal’s history. Here the headlines read, “Grab your weapons! (see the voting card being held)” and “People of Senegal, President Wade is listening.”

Photobucket
Why am I going to Thiès? Well, I volunteered to be a part of the electoral process in my own small way. I’m one member of a two person team who will go out and serve as election observers in some of the rural communities.

There are lots of observers in town for the presidential elections. In addition to Senegalese observers, organizations like ECOWAS and the European Union have personnel who will be traveling the country throughout the day. In the case of the United States, each of our two person teams comprise an American and a Senegalese employee of our mission here.
On the day of elections, no one is allowed to move from city to city. This might sound a bit extreme, but the thinking behind this restriction is that it prevents people from voting in multiple districts. With this in mind, we came out to Thiès the day before the election and used the spare time to pinpoint selected polling stations. (If you’ve never been in this part of the world, then you might not understand that many rural villages don’t have signs. It would pay to do our homework in advance so that we’d know where to find polling stations once the morning rolled around.)

Photobucket
Voting stations are set up across the country in places like schools, town halls, and tents. On the wall of each station you see that instructions are posted to familiarize the public. Local television stations have also been running commercials in French and Wolof in order to facilitate awareness of proper voting procedure.

Photobucket
Here is one school that we scoped out the day prior. A lot of these places are located back in the winding sandy roads of a village. Lucky for us that Senegalese are extremely helpful, and in each village we always found people who were willing to point us in the right direction. The goats? Well, they just ignored us.

Photobucket
One of our observation sites was Tivouane, the spiritual capital of the Tidiane Sufi brotherhood. Here you can see its great mosque, still under construction after thirty years (or so I’m told).
Photobucket
As we were driving through the countryside, I got a text from another Thiès team who learned that the president’s party (Parti Démocratique Sénégalais) was handing out rice and cooking oil at one of the local soccer stadiums. This is one of the photos that our team took when they got to the stadium. Apparently, the PDS wasn’t happy to have observers show up at this Oprah-style pre-election giveaway.

After a lengthy yet productive afternoon of driving around the Thiès environs, we turned in for the night so we could be ready for an early morning start. We needed to be on the road and in place at a polling station before kickoff time at 8:00am.


Election Day:
Photobucket
“Ceux-là, on les tue on ne les déshonore pas.
 Lat Dior, your armies live on to this day, and this morning I think that your spirit shall be invoked by millions of your countrymen.

Photobucket
With Café Touba in hand, I’m ready to tackle election day. I swear that this stuff gives you magical powers. Neex na!

Photobucket
We arrive at our first voting center about a half hour before the polls open up. When we arrive at the station, it’s encouraging to see that there are already people standing in line.

As observers, we are authorized to walk into each bureau de vote and observe the voting process as it takes place (after introducing ourselves to the bureau chairperson, of course). My teammate and I have a good routine down- he does the talking and I do the smiling, nodding and recording of our travels. Our function as observers is to remain neutral, and not interfere with the process- no matter what we see going on. 

Photobucket
Here is one of the ballot boxes. The setup is the same in each bureau de vote, and I probably won’t get in trouble if I tell you that the bureau committees were extremely professional and correct in their execution of duties. It was really cool and inspiring to watch democracy in action.

Photobucket
There were fourteen candidates running for president. Each candidate had a ballot card with his or her name and photograph on the card. A voter would come in and take each one of these fourteen cards, along with an official envelope. Once inside the voting booth, they were to place their selection in the envelope and then bring it back out to be dropped in the ballot box.

Photobucket
Behold the sign of a participatory democracy. After voting, each person had his or her finger dipped in indelible ink, which prevents them from attempting to vote elsewhere. As another American described it, “It’s their version of the ‘I Voted’ sticker!”

 Photobucket
Many voting centers were stood up in schools, and as such we sat or stood in many of these classrooms. As I was trying to balance myself on a rickety bench in this particular schoolhouse, I snapped a couple of photos to give you an idea of the conditions. I would say that all of the desks and materials that I saw were in an appalling state; they would never be seen as fit for use in the States. But that said, education does takes place here, and people use every resource that they can find until the bitter end.

Photobucket
I have heard it said that the number one resource in Senegal is its people. Indeed, the Senegalese are known for their smarts, and although they may not have the fancy educational furnishings that pass as standard back in the States, you can tell that a premium is placed on education. I don’t want you to look at these conditions and just assume that it’s because the people here don’t care about learning- that couldn’t be further from the truth. It’s a matter of limited resources. I can guarantee that the teacher of this school would like nothing better than to have this hole patched before the rainy season comes in a few months.

Photobucket
The lines grew long, and the people patiently waited for their turn. Later on someone told me that he waited in line to vote for three hours, but he was proud to do his part. So awesome.

Photobucket
As we traveled to many voting stations, we were treated as welcome guests at every center. Here you see that at least one station I was handed a serving of attaya, the fantastic afternoon pick-me-up that is concentrated, sweetened mint tea. As is standard operating procedure in this country, if you are guest, you are treated with teranga. Even if the people are busy trying to get on with electing a new president. It’s a humbling experience.

As we drove from village to village, we always had the radio on so we could find out if anything “interesting” was going on throughout the country. Was there high or low voter turnout? Fraud? Maybe violence? We heard many general observations on how the day was going- and indeed everyone was glued to a radio and listening in as well. I think that after election today, I will never hear the song ‘Chariots of Fire’ in the same manner again- what was once paired with a great running movie is now synonymous with the Senegalese radio station that used this song as background music for their electoral reporting all day. Awesome.

Photobucket
At the end of the day we ended up in a village that had five big tents serving as polling stations. Once the polls closed (at 6pm), we were to remain inside one of these and supervise the counting of votes.

Photobucket
Inside the tent, you can see that the fading sunlight made for dark conditions for the election staff. Little kids who were running around outdoors kept peeking in to see what was going on. They were also blocking what little light we had inside.

Photobucket
I took this photo with my cell phone, but I wanted to show you what we were working with as the votes were being counted. Most tents (and indeed many buildings) counted their votes by the light of a little Coleman lantern. One of the tents that we visited even used two small candles that were stuck into the table, affixed in its own wax.

Photobucket
Outside the tent, a sign was posted announcing that the bureau de vote was closed, and that official counting was now taking place. You could feel the excitement all around us as the votes were tallied and the country transitioned to playing the waiting game.

After the count in our tent was complete, we made our way back to our hotel in order to watch the national news report preliminary returns.

Photobucket
In addition to call-in reporting, the national news showed Twitter updates. This Tweet notes that President Wade was beaten in his own voting bureau, followed by the breakdown of votes in that bureau. Technology is amazing.

Even before midnight I would say that the country had a good idea as to how the results were shaping up. As observers, however, we still had one more day of responsibilities to fulfill. Time to wash the sand off of my feet and head to bed.

The Day After:

Photobucket
We’re heading back out to the same polling stations in order to record the posted results.

Photobucket
Here we are, back at one of the schools on February 27th. Pay no attention to the “Wade 2012” graffiti on the wall behind us. We posed in this spot on purpose- primarily because one of the questions on our observer questionnaire was, “Is each station free from political campaigning?” Um- at the moment every wall in this country seems to be plastered with political discourse.

 Photobucket
Again, another view of a school. This one was in Pout.

Photobucket
You can see the the windows in this school are using empty rice bags to form part of the wall.

Photobucket
Random ballots were strewn all about the ground of each bureau– a sure sign of the morning after a vote count.

Photobucket
Each bureau de vote is supposed to have a copy of its results posted on the door. This school (and many others) had kids hanging around and playing with the colorful used ballot cards. I should mention that while yes, this is a Monday- there hasn’t been school in awhile because the teachers are on strike. With all of the perturbations that have been going on, these kids risk an année blanche– or a school year “lost” due to strikes. It’s heartbreaking.

Photobucket
A look inside one of the voting stations on the morning after. You can see the voting booth in the corner, and the discarded votes strewn about. 

Photobucket
Here is what the posted results look like- this is what we were looking for at each center.

Photobucket
In some places, this is what we would find when we arrived. The results were either torn down by disenchanted voters or more likely by the kids who were hanging around.

Photobucket
Once we finished collecting the results from each station, I got to head back to town and spend some time with one of my former classmates at UCAD. She lives in Thiès and it was great to catch up with her after so much time. She made us a really fantastic lunch of cebbujenn, the national dish of Senegal, and we talked about our lives and goals for the future. It was a great perk of being in town for the election.

Photobucket
With our observation legwork accomplished, we were soon on our way back to Dakar in order to hand in our observations.

Photobucket
Meanwhile, the results continue came in, and the entire country is buzzing about the future shape of this country’s leadership.

Photobucket
In true OBS fashion, this paper went the furthest in providing an interpretation of preliminary results. As for me, all I can say at the moment is that this vote is going to a second round. No one candidate got at least 51% of the vote- and that means that we have a few more weeks of campaigning yet before we have a declared winner.

As usual, I don’t know exactly what’s going to happen out here in mid-March, but I do hope to be on a team of observers who will participate in the run-off election. Even if I don’t get that chance, I will say right now that the opportunity to serve an election observer was without a doubt the coolest thing that I have ever done. The Senegalese people did themselves proud this weekend, and as we watched citizens of all ages stand in line in order to have their voices heard, I can truly say that democracy is a great thing- Churchill be damned.

Postscript:  To get a look at how the second round of voting went down, click ahead to my follow-up entry here.

Follow Me on Pinterest