Heroes Acre is a 57 acre monument dedicated to the freedom fighters of Zimbabwe. It holds the graves of many Zimbabwean freedom fighters, and is located up on a high hill. After I paid my ten dollar non-resident entrance fee, we were escorted to the main part of this expanse by a tour guide who jumped in the car with us.
According to our guide, work on this monument started in 1981, one year after independence. The design is a collaboration between North Korean and Zimbabwean artists, and the construction materials are reportedly all from Zimbabwe. Looks to me like Senegal wasn’t the African first country to look to North Korea to build its fancy monuments.
The bronze murals on each perimeter wall depict the struggles of the Zimbabwean people against their Rhodesian oppressors.
The depictions are decidedly…interesting. The stories told by our guide were certainly interesting as well. Yes, interesting.
Ahh the hallmarks of a hero. There are actually four (I believe) unknown soldiers buried here- but I like the touch of the three Zimbabweans clutching the flag and weapons. The full color Zimbabwean flag is seen on the wall just behind them. (Hey, at least the dude on the top isn’t holding a baby who is pointing towards New York.)
Our guide had us climb the steps- which were meant to recreate the great climb of the Zimbabwean people as they fought to gain freedom from their colonial oppressors.
“According to my research, this is called an obelisk.” explains our guide. Yes, I believe your research is correct. Once at the top, he points out that this obelisk has an eternal flame- which is illuminated from 6PM to 6AM each day. Eternal indeed. It made me think of the street that is closed in front of Mugabe’s residence downtown.
The view from the top of the monument shows a panoramic view of Harare and its outskirts. Not only can you see the new soccer stadium that was built by China, but down below you can see places reserved for future heroes. From what I hear, the ruling party (the ZANU-PF, which was modeled on other communist parties) has total say over who is named a Zimbabwean hero. Interesting, indeed.
Looking down upon our armed statues, you can see the stadium seating that is used for funeral services.
This is the grave of Robert Mugabe’s first wife, Sally, who died in 1992 of kidney failure. She was well-loved here in Zimbabwe. Mugabe now has a new wife, Grace- who is almost half his age. I hear that she is known amongst the locals as “Dis Grace”.
“And here on this wall you can see Comrade Mugabe.” I went over to check him out, and a part of me wondered if this mural would always have his face displayed so prominently. Sure, he did a lot for the liberation movement- but me and my white perspective are also cognizant of all the bad that he has exacted during his 32 year reign. To all races in this country.
Of the 47 heroes buried at the Acre, this is the only white dude. Arthur Guy Clutton-Brock was a British-born agriculturist who came to Zimbabwe as a missionary and helped to foster black-white partnership policies. As far as the number of whites left in Zimbabwe- well, they are not as numerous as they used to be.
I take my cues from dudes who stand up in moving vehicles while rolling down the highway. I was definitely going to get my photograph, and Annie’s driving skills were definitely going to keep me alive.
