A Change of Scenery

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I’m fortunate enough to find myself in western Zimbabwe at Hwange National Park.

Hwange is close to the Kalahari desert, and there are over 100 animals and 400 bird species found on the reserve. From the moment that we arrived at The Hide, we were in seamless coexistence with an amazing array of flora and fauna. I felt like I had stepped onto another planet.

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These plants lined the sides of the main building at The Hide. It looked like Mother Nature was either attempting her best Jackson Pollock impression or she simply spilled some paint while coloring her other creations.

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After a nine hour drive, we were greeted quite warmly by The Hide staff at this magnificent open air table setting. The table and chairs are made of teak (there are many teak trees on the reserve), and after trying to pull out one of the chairs I learned that teak is an amazingly dense wood that is not to be trifled with. You couldn’t steal this table and chairs if your life depended on it!
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After some outstanding hot food, we headed next door to another open air structure for some drinks and conversation with the friendly and extremely knowledgeable guides.

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Did you know that Tab is still manufactured? I didn’t, and found it more amusing than probably necessary that it was on offer at the lodge.

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After reviewing our schedule for the weekend, we shown to our tent and allowed some time to relax before afternoon tea.

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Calling this a tent probably doesn’t do this place any justice (you’ll just have to check out the website here). We did indeed get our own tent, but inside you find actual beds, plumbing, complimentary laundry service and filtered water. We’re not on Kilimanjaro anymore, Toto.

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While each tent boasted an indoor shower, I was most excited to see that each one also had the outdoor shower option. I grew up with an outdoor shower (used of course in the warmer months only), so this was definitely going to get some use.

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And the shower has a hole cut out so you can wash your hair while enjoying a fantastic view of the pan. The Hide staff told us that some of the outermost tents have the distinct possibility of elephants wandering over to say hello while you are washing up. Pretty cool- that is if it doesn’t scare the daylights out of you…

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I mentioned up above that each structure has a nice view of the pan. Before this trip, the only pan that I had been aware of was the one that is found in the kitchen. Pans are man-made watering holes constructed in places that would otherwise have insufficient water for the animals. The perk for us here is that we’d be treated to some up close and personal wildlife sightings.

Since we arrived in the late afternoon, we were gearing up to head out for the evening game drive.  This would take place closer to sunset, and the trip back to home base would provide an opportunity to check out some nocturnal animals. In all honesty, we were just happy that our guide would be driving, and there was no crazy map to decipher.
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The fearless Annie (really, this girl is all about making the most out of life) sits back and enjoys the fact that her view isn’t obstructed by a steering wheel.

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Jean, our guide, stopped the truck quite frequently to point out items of interest. Here we have a yellow-billed hornbill, also known as a banana bill.

[Note: I think that some study once proved that we humans tend to best retain the first and last things presented to us in any type of educational setting. Unfortunately, no matter how many mind-sharpening crosswords that I attempt, I am unfortunately victim to this same plight. So now that you know this about me, you will understand my inability to rattle off the names of the other neat stuff that I photographed.]

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It’s a beautiful afternoon, and there is certainly plenty to see, photograph, and misremember. This is such a cool experience!

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It’s the rainy season, so the grass is high and animals are a bit more challenging to spot. I’d like to personally thank the male impalas for growing horns that make them easier for me to spot. I am sure that their natural predators would have the same sentiment.

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Jean, our guide, rattled off so many facts and descriptions that I strongly recommend that The Hide give this fine guide a raise. From the largest tree to the smallest water scorpion that he picked out in puddle, I was continually reminded of how little we all know about our vast planet. When you spend most of your life in an urban setting, you really do lose a sense for how vast and fragile our planet’s ecosystems really are.

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We saw lots of birds. This is one of them. Give the team at The Hide a call if you want to know the species. They know their birds- right down to each bird call.

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These are lions- they are readily recognized by their stripes. Yes people, that’s mild sarcasm.

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At one point Jean pulled the truck into a field and pulled a handful of this stuff. He had us smell it and try to guess what it was. While it was vaguely familiar, I couldn’t place the scent. As it turns out, wild basil grows in these parts- it can not only be used in cooking, but it is also a natural mosquito repellent.

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I’d also like to thank my friend Annie for letting me borrow one of her cameras, which boasted a very helpful zoom lens.

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A lot of times you had to look sharp to spot an animal- many were just below the grass and difficult to spot. Especially from a moving truck. I call this species “Big Bird in Tall Grass Bird”.

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As the sun began to set, Jean picked out a spot for us to stop and enjoy the view. The great thing about a night drive is the staff packs cooler with your preferred beverage- be it Tab or otherwise.

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Annie and I opted for some South African wine that was accompanied by some food refreshment. It’s getting pitch black, and we’re ready to go “spotlighting”.

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Here’s another skill that makes the guides worthy of their skills. Not only is Jean driving in the pitch black- he is shifting gears and working a spot light that helps him to identify animals. Several times he would stop the car and show us something that I probably would not have noticed had I run over it out here. It was like we were in a real live version of Wild Kingdom as we sat in the back of the truck.

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Back at The Hide, we were brought together with the rest of the guests and Hide staff. Everyone dined together at that fantastic teak table, and the newcomers (which were us) were welcomed by name and the meal was announced by the very excellent chefs. The view into the pan offered some visibility courtesy of a light shining dimly onto the field- a good thing because at this stage of the evening there are more animals clustered around having a drink.

We’ve had quite a long day, and we tuck ourselves into bed rather early in preparation for a morning walk through the park.  As we shut out the lights in our tent, the only sound we can hear is a fan and the sounds of nature all around us. If the lions don’t eat me in the morning, then this will definitely be an experience that I shall never forget.

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