Le Thanksgiving à Paris

“Alice came by 
(and with a few nasty words to Obie on the side)
bailed us out of jail, and we went back to the church, 
had another Thanksgiving dinner that couldn’t be beat,  
went to sleep, and didn’t get up until the next morning, 
when we all had to go to court.”  
– Arlo Guthrie 

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What could taste better than a Franco-American Thanksgiving?

Thanksgiving tends to be one of those high holidays that people will trade away in exchange for positive space at their family’s Christmas table- or maybe for a primo spot in a parking lot line in preparation for some ridiculous midnight Friday opening. Me, I won’t ever get up for a midnight appointment unless the Navy tells me to do so, but I will happily volunteer myself to be away from the Cape in November if it will increase my chances of being home in the cold of winter.  Last year worked out in exactly this manner, and during Thanksgiving I was lucky enough to share a table with outstanding friends in Dakar. This year, my vague wanderings have landed me just as far away from any semblance of actual home- but I’m lucky enough to once again be among good people in another francophone country. 
In face, I happen to be in zee francophone country.

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What follows is about 24 hours worth of Thanksgiving preparation, execution, and immediate consequences of this great American tradition served up in Paris.

The morning started off as it always should: my hosts and I embarked on a modest Turkey Trot 5K before heading back to move heavy tables and put the finishing touches on a menu that would make any French person feel like they’ve scored a golden ticket to Thanksgiving room of the Wonka Factory. I should know; I’m a subject matter expert on all things American.
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Here we have the mighty American family of Le Marais, all manned and ready at their assigned food stations as soon after returning from our run. As you can see, even the one year-old takes his innocent meddling quite seriously.
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Morning preparations included a run to Finkelstajn’s Bakery to pick up the foundation for what would turn out to be the best Thanksgiving dessert ever. I have the happy task of tearing this beautiful challah into pieces, and sampling along the way to ensure that it is up to specs.
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Pay no attention to the booze in the background- these mashed potatoes will be decidedly non-alcoholic…
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…as far as the butter content is concerned, I can’t exactly assure you of only trace amounts contained in these holiday dishes. I believe that to be a very good thing when you’re living that thinks Land O’ Lakes is an actual place.
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Rubbing in just a bit of butter in a halved Butterball. The bird has come from America, but unfortunately we’re cooking in a French house with a French-sized oven. No matter, we’ve got hosts who know all about the military maxim of Adapt, Overcome and Improvise. They brought the turkey down to their butcher to have it sliced in half.

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Bay leaves, rosemary, sage and thyme are thrown into the roasting pan and we are loaded for bear. Just pop it all into the oven and… oh wait- what are those garlic cloves doing on the counter? Open up the oven, grab the bird from its fiery clutches and experience a narrow miss of the evening’s first (and hopefully last) oh merde moment.

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Our prowling supervisor works on shaking the remains of his afternoon nap by assuming a place on the floor in order to comfortably assess the performance of his caretakers. The Little Guy stared at me for a good couple of minutes as I photographed this face of vague concentration. I think I bear a similar resemblance when I don’t PT first thing in the morning…

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Ahh the ever-important beverage area. We’ve got selections for invités of all ages- even a blue plastic bottle for the French military guys coming over later on.

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Each family has their own traditions at Thanksgiving (my own usually revolves around a piece of furniture known as a hutch- and let us never speak of this again). At this house, a jar containing a secret number of M and Ms was mailed over to Paris by stateside family members. This jar intrigue would add some excellent drama towards the end of the evening.

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We’ve got about 20 people coming for dinner, so glasses are at a premium. We’re advised to mark our glasses with these neat tags. No one’s gonna steal my glass, because as far as anyone is concerned, I deliver complexity.

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Once the Thanksgiving supervisor has knocked out his siesta cobwebs, he’s quickly on the move as guests arrive. Here I am stealing his seat and negotiating the dispensation of a Thanksgiving banana so his parents can work with the oven.

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Our Thanksgiving table includes a bit of arts and crafts that will teach French attendees something about our Thanksgiving crack at artistry. The dining table is covered with brown paper so people can draw turkeys à l’américain. Here we have the fabulous Audrey doing her interpretation of a turkey hand. She is the embodiment of this dinner as she herself is Franco-American- and you can see that she is fusing her innate sense of French craftsmanship with her  lowbrow hand tracing style which has results in conjoined turkey twins.

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I don’t know who made this turkey, but it did ensure that no one stole her spot.

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And I have no idea who drew all over herself as she failed in her effort to trace around her hand. I swear I was only on glass number one while attempting this challenging feat.

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Guests arrived already wearing big smiles, and this was because they kept saying that down in the street they could smell dinner cooking. No one needed to be told where to go- all they had to do was follow the aroma of Freedom Food emanating from the apartment two floors up.

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I’ve got a French Army officer seated next to me. We’re getting along great since we’re both pretty schooled in the give-and-take of ball-busting conversation. He didn’t know much about me or my sporting allegiances when he drew this crazy turkey up. But I helped to correct the situation.


Time for dinner, and although he may kill me for videoing this and sticking it on Youtube, I thought that this pre-dinner speech was fantastic. Tim is great at speaking off the cuff and making everyone feel welcome at all times- especially during this holiday where there were way more French people than Americans.

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Eating in action. You can tell that this is a table that you’d hope to find a seat saved. Great food and great conversation made time (and food) fly by.

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Remember, this is an American Thanksgiving being held in France- which means that no meal is complete without a fantastic cheese course.

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Also recall that I was ripping up flaky challah bread earlier in the day, and now this is the glorious result: pumpkin bread pudding. Really, this could have been my entire Thanksgiving dinner and I would have been happy- but you kinda need some protein before dessert if you want to keep from consuming the entire pan.

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This is the dessert plate of that crazy Giants-loving Army guy. Bourbon apple pie was the rivaling dessert choice, which explains the Maker’s Mark in my potato shot, as well as the glasses of bourbon in the background seen here. It’s all about food and drink pairings in this country. I feel like I’ve won the food lottery.

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Recalling the jar of candy from earlier, dessert course now sees it passed around to be inspected and scrutinized with a wine-saturated critical eye. Everyone writes down their guess as to how many are in the jar.

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Here’s our hostess, reading out the various guesses as everyone looks on in rapt attention. I don’t think that the French are used to the possibility of winning prizes for simply showing up for supper.

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Scandale! Here’s the other half of our hosting team in premature celebration as the exact  count is read from the wax-sealed envelope – it was his Mom who sent over the jar. Here you see the French looking on in suspicion of American-style chicanery. Lucky for him, there was one better guess, and the ultimate winner was French. Good thing, because Thanksgiving is all about sharing…

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And in the next room, we have a Slingbox arrangement set up that allows us to watch the  football games being broadcast back at home. This is Thanksgiving authenticity at its finest. Especially as I watch and sip my delicious French wine.

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This is only a fraction of the empties that accumulated in the kitchen. The keys to Thanksgiving cleanup success includes periodic dish washing and recycling intervals.

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The little French fridge valiantly holds the leftovers. Or at least most of them.

And without further ado, I present you with a collage of the table’s other hand turkeys:

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Turkey drawn by an American.

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French turkey drawings (which kinda goes without saying…)

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More French turkeys. Or maybe the French word for turkey sounds like reindeer.

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Okay, the French just wanted to channel their inner Cézanne, or maybe give a little respect to the fallen dinde. This one’s my favorite.

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This is also done by a French guest, and I think it says it all.

This was a really fantastic evening. Not only was the food outstanding in every aspect, but without even realizing it we we found ourselves at one o’clock in the morning and wondering exactly where the time went (at least I did).

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I woke up the next morning kinda late, and felt a bit like I had undertaken a wrestling match with a street sweeper the day before. I walked out to the kitchen, where underage supervision was once again taking place while the adults continued with kitchen clean-up duties. I was greeted with a bottle of Advil, which I gratefully washed down with a cup of black coffee before reassuming a horizontal position in the living room. Not a bad way to roll into the holiday season.

I have no idea where I will be next year, but I think that this Thanksgiving will be pretty difficult to top. I’m so thankful for Tim, Meaghan and T3 for welcoming me into their home and making me feel like a part of their massive Franco-American family of friends.
Now if you’ll excuse me I need to go back into the kitchen and see if there’s any more pumpkin bread pudding in that tiny fridge. I so need to go on a long run tomorrow morning.