Sewing Tradition



Some things never go out of style…

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Not too many days left here in Dakar, and while the weather alternates between le soleil ça tappe (the sun is beating down) and mon dieu this rain is no joke, I have sought calming activities spent indoors with good friends. 

Last week before the movers showed up, I bought up as much of Senegal as I could and stuffed it into a shipping container. Baskets, sous verre, a copy of Léopold Sédar Senghor’s poetry, bissap…. even meters of unmistakably West African fabric. Still, I am no seamstress and the stuff I bought isn’t for me. But now that I’ve gotten to the end of my time here, I have figured out that I am way behind in making use of this great material. So Tuesday became a day that revolved around bright patterns.

First stop, a jaunt out to the westernmost point on continental Africa to pick up some dresses that were made for me by a wicked talented tailor: 

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Marie’s mother was a seamstress, and she continues the tradition. You should see the old Singer sewing machine that she uses in front of her shop. I believe you call these things antiques chez nous. She’s got a full studio at home, but this is where she does alterations on the fly. 

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Listen: Marie is a really talented tailor. Her intuition, understanding of what flatters you, ability to translate what you envision with how horribly you’re describing it in French as well as her infectious warmth make for an outstanding couturier. If you drive to La Pointe des Almadies, her shop is one of the first ones you’ll find when you come to the proverbial end of the road. I think so highly of her that I am giving you her cell number: 77 648 5548 (word of mouth is how things get done in Senegal).

Once the dresses were picked up, I headed to a friend’s house to do some low-intensity sewing with these fantastic fabrics. Recently I spied handmade cocktail napkins made by a friend with a fantastic design business (click here to check out her site). loved the idea of crazy-colored cocktail napkins- but alas I have neither sewing machine nor the requisite skill to attempt such a project. Luckily for me, I have friends who can answer these calls.

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It’s sewing time- I haven’t done this since middle school!

My mom was always really fabulous about sewing and knitting us kids all manner of Halloween costume, clothing and blankets. I’m pretty sure that I had the best Halloween costumes in all the neighborhood (a very complicated but very impressive Garfield costume comes to mind), but I have not managed to pick up where she left off as Marie did with her mother. I did take a sewing course as a kid, but it’s been a long while since I’ve stood behind a sewing machine.

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And the sewing machines are so much more impressive today!

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So I don’t have my mom here in Senegal to keep me from sewing through my hand, but I do have friends who can provide an impromptu workshop with all of our fabric. It sounds crazy, but in purchasing meters of fabric, I am rediscovering that not all of the products that way wear and use have to come from the store. We can make this stuff! (Rocket science, this stuff is.)

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Behold, la spécialiste. She’s doing the more, um, visible stitch-work.

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After a brief tutorial, I’m on the job and doing my best to be a better student than I was back in Mrs. Sweeney’s 7th Grade Home Ec class. I was really trying to keep the squares aligned, and the level of concentration is written all over my face. Besides, I’m making some napkins for my mom, and I want her to be proud of my work!

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He’s laughing at me, I swear…

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And if you’ve got an infinitely more talented seamstress working alongside you, then Presto!-you too can get this done in an afternoon. Just add cocktails (and don’t look too close or you’ll be able to tell which ones I stitched).

So I didn’t do that much of the sewing today, but I was a super good ironer, and fabric turn inside-outer. There was also lots of great conversation conducted in a peaceful setting- something that enjoy immensely. Sitting down at a sewing machine was so enjoyable that I think I might need to hit up my mom and ask her for some long-delayed tutorials. We’ll start small and work up to the Garfield costume! Maybe I’ll make the Senegalese version of Garfield.


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Time marches on, but this was another day very well spent.