Endless Summer (maybe)

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These days it’s always nice to be rolling around Dakar and remarking at how much this city has changed over the past two and a half years. At the same time, I take a bizarre sort of comfort each time I look through a cracked windshield and see some typical dakarois sight. Here, the car rapide conductor (for lack of a better word) is sporting a shirt that says “Your Life is In My Hands”. Thanks for the reminder, mon ami– sporting your trousers at half-mast was definitely not inspiring any confidence supported by your shirt.
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I’m getting sad about leaving Senegal soon- but from the looks of this ad, I might have a future occupation here post-Navy. Each time you go to the gas station and fill up, you have the chance to win your own taxi. I think that would make for a fantastic TV show- and a whole new kind of blog!

And speaking of new things….

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“I know my limits, that’s why I go beyond them.”

I’ve said it before, but I don’t have a bucket list. At the same time, I do find that I’m always doing stuff that is totally outside of my comfort zone (remember how my brother dared me to play hockey?). I figure that while I may have a certain amount of trepidation in trying something new, I figure that thousands of humans have gone before me and have lived through the scary experience in question, so the chances are good that my personal perceived risk-taking feat will yield good rewards. At least that’s what I tell myself.

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So today’s activity finally had me trying something that I never imagined I’d ever do…
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Here at Yoff, the beach really is fantastic- and it’s not because there are these cool huts that line the strip of sand.
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No, Yoff is fantastic because it really buzzes with all sorts of activity. At 9:30 in the morning you see people setting up their day, getting some exercise in, or simply standing at the shoreline and gazing out into the waves, chapelet in hand. I kind of love that.

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 But we toubabs are here for a morning of surfing. Really, this whole outing wasn’t organized at all by me- so I had no excuse in trying to find some lame excuse to not go and checking it out. Besides, after being stationed in Hawaii for 3+ years and not ever trying to surf, I already had some splaining to do.

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The big clincher for me to go and surf was that I’d get a lesson- and also the fact that this beach has a nice sandy bottom that would not hurt too much when I would fall each and every time I attempted to stand up on that floating board thing.

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Marée haute and marée basse on this fine June day. I will leave you to decipher the translation.


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I’m the only one of the group who signed up for a lesson– and as the guys all took their boards and headed for the waves, a cool Italian chick named Marta got ready to show me the basics.

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Behold my chariot of instruction for the morning. We started on the beach doing Senegalese-style calisthenics and then as she showed me the basics of how to lay on the board and also how to spring up. I will tell you that even on terra firma, I kind of sucked at the springing up part (that’s a sneak peak on how the rest of my lesson would go!).


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So, I couldn’t exactly take my camera in the water, but I will tell you that surfing is tough! Marta was an awesome teacher who explained the mechanics quite well. Actually, I felt like it was very similar to yoga- except you have the whole wave action aspect that messes with your ujjayi breathing. BTW, I loved this fish.


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Lest I post absolutely zero photos of people surfing, here’s one pic that I took of the lads while out in the waves. They did a really great job of making surfing look easy. Me, I ran out of gas after about 45 minutes and was zapped of all requisite strength that props one’s legs up on top of the board. Still, it was fun! I felt like a little kid again as I kept zipping off the top of the board and crashing into the waves. 


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Back on the beach, I worked on catching my breath and mentally programming a reinvigorated upper body workout regimen. As the morning wore on, I watched as the beach got more populated and folks played soccer, conducted dance lessons, and even brought their sheep out to the water for a morning bath.

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No really- it was bath time. I love this part of Senegal. 
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After a few hours on the water, our day at the beach came to a close. This was definitely a high point as far as experiences in Dakar go. It was also another “Thank you General Olmsted” moment.

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After our surf outing, I showered up and counted my new souvenirs (I believe we call them bruises in English). As we were sitting at a (newly installed!) traffic light, one of the street vendors came up to my open window and said “Promotion! Promotion!” He had a bundle of sticks on his shoulder (they use them to clean teeth)- and of course he was joking. I suppose I should explain a bit: “Promotion” is kinda French for “on sale” – and phone cards purchased on the street often go on promotion….the Senegalese are definitely known for their fantastic sense of humor- and this guy making a joke about putting sticks on sale made me laugh. He broke a stick in half and gave it to me- and I commenced with cleaning my teeth the local way. I mean really, who needs a toothbrush?

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Ironically, my evening found me at the French Cultural Center so I could watch the excellent documentary Ladies’ Turn. The film is about women in Senegal playing soccer, and the opening scene shows the Yoff team training at the beach. As I watched, I had no doubt that some of these women were at the beach with me that morning.

So, that’s my book report on a really cool day of trying to surf in a really great location. I also wanted to do a blog posting so I could let you all know that I’m going to be taking a break from blogging for awhile. I really love blogging (and I have so much more to say!) but I love my job even more. I’m in the writing stage of my research and I’m finding that there are far too many detractors that are killing my productivity. I’ve got to get this thing finished.
So inch’allah, the next time you see a blog entry, I will have completed my paper. It will probably be awhile- but rest assured I will get back to this eventually.