Willing to Fight

What matters most for you? Are you actively pursuing a life that safeguards these things? If not, how come?

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Knowledge is a weapon. For me, I can think of few axioms more attractive than this one when it comes to getting myself out the door and on the road to discovery.

Greetings from South Africa’s O.R. Tambo airport. Having submitted to the allure of peri-peri seasoning, I am snacking on a decidedly inferior packet of shelf stable cashews that are  giving me a preview of what I’ve got in store upon returning to America in just a few months. Don’t get me wrong, there will be lots of welcome adjustments- but I just know that I’ll miss the unparalleled quality of locally grown nuts that can be purchased on the road as you sweat your life away in the midday sun of Rufisque and Thiaroye.

Am I overthinking this bag of layover food as I sit here in a semi-sleep deprived state? Maybe. But I will say this: as I sit and watch the remaining grains spill from this scholarship’s extremely generous hourglass, I’m still giving it my all in terms of getting out and around. This is because for me, travel and continually learning are two things that go hand in hand and are of great importance. Also, freshly grilled and salted cashews rank rather highly.

It would appear that we’ve once again arrived at that same old clichĂ© about us all living on borrowed time, and making the most of what we’ve got.

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Contrary to popular misconception, the untamed Olmsted Scholar does demonstrate a capacity for sitting still. She’s just having trouble fitting this particular activity in at the moment.

Prior to stepping onto a big jet plane this morning at 6AM, I had a pretty busy weekend in Senegal- it was a hectic schedule that was largely self-imposed but also highly worthwhile in terms of watering my Last Night On Earth mentality.
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It started with Friday- the day of the week that I always most look forward to in Senegal. Everyone (who is Senegalese, je veux dire) looks fabulous as they don their traditional African attire. We toubabs just can’t hold un tissu wax to their sense of style.

A whisky-themed evening that took place earlier in the week had me scheming to head back to Saint Louis for one last visit before departing Senegal definitivement. Little did I know that this weekend would be my moment of opportunity- but before you can say “Don’t you need to pack for Mozambique?” I was up in Saint Louis in time to watch the Friday evening sunset.

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I don’t have a car here- so as usual it was time to hop on one of the many marvels of local transportation. Everybody grab your favorite religious talisman and hold on!
(And no, this wasn’t actually my hired vehicle for the weekend- but isn’t this thing pretty?)

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Hello again, Saint Louis! It’s very difficult to ever tire of this place. Or to not feel inspired.

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Saturday was a fine day that was filled with lots of wandering about and observing a mundane that comes off as quite the opposite to toubabs like me. You’re provided with a real sense of asylum up here in Saint Louis- something that I’d argue is almost impossible to achieve back in Dakar.  Walking around the island and watching the world go by is often just what one needs when they start to suffer from a case of the Dakar crazies.

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Behold a homemade merry-go-round that sits on the side of the river: it’s a simple construction of painted iron chairs welded atop a spinning disk with no restraints to be seen. (I don’t know about your individual safety concerns- but isn’t this thing pretty?)

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On the other side of the river, you can no longer take this old timey bridge to cross. For better or for worse, it’s very easy to envision what Saint Louis looked like fifty years ago.

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Did you know that after his spy life, James Bond moved to Saint Louis? It’s true.

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In Saint Louis, the locals working the bar at your fabulous hotel will eschew the espresso machine and go out into the street looking for cafĂ© touba. And it will be served it in a real tasse. Now that’s teranga!

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And what’s a trip to Saint Louis without taking another 100 photos of pirogues along the water? I’m drawn to these things like flies to sugar.

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And speaking of people fighting to do things that they believe in- Sunday morning was exceptionally special. I might have been in Senegal, but all of my friends were back in Washington D.C. and participating in this year’s Race for Hope to fight brain tumors. I lifted this photo off of Facebook- but this woman in yellow came in as the fastest female brain tumor survivor. She’s my friend BethAnn and on this morning I ran a 5K in her honor around the island of Saint Louis. I can guarantee that she still ran her 5K far faster than mine.
Lounging about in Saint Louis however could not last the entire weekend. I had obligations back in Dakar before traveling- pesky things like re-packing as a well as worthwhile activities like trying to get together with local friends. Maintaining your friendships when you do tend to travel a lot- that’s another thing I find extremely important.

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Sundays are a day of rest- and on this day we got together and paged through some cookbooks in the vague quest of baking bread. 

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If any yeast recipe counts as bread, then we definitely made some bread together. The cinnamon and sugar swirly kind that lends itself to prolonged periods of proofing that yields quality conversation. Here we have my friend Becca revealing her meticulous nature as the aesthetics of these gorgeous rosettes are not quite up to her standard.

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You know what else is great about baking and sharing? You get to enjoy a house that smells like magic. Here my friends are icing the cinnamon buns- and in the foreground you can see that the dining room table is doubling as my packing station. I’m leaving that night for my trip.

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You may have seen this closeup on Facebook. Luckily for me, I was traveling and was forced to banish these beauties from my house. My guard downstairs was the recipient of some traditional American fat bombs.

So I’ve since transitioned to a big white logo-less plane that purports to be Mozambique Airlines. When boarding I could see that this aircraft used to be used by Air Namibia. After passing out for about an hour upon embarkation, I woke up to find that we were still on the ground. Cue an eventual announcement in Portuguese that yielded words that I could translate as “mechanical problem” and “disembarkation”, and I’m currently figuring out where my home away from home is going to be tonight in Johannesburg.

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I’m not sure when I’ll get to Maputo, but the uncertainty of travel- especially out here- is all a part of the adventure. For better or for worse, I’m sure I’ll come away from this unscheduled stop with a good story or two- where I’m bound to have learned something.

Keep your fingers crossed for me!