Journées du Patrimoine: Dimanche

Since I got to see some really neat and rarely-visited places here last weekend, I figured that it is only right to post my photos and thus expand the viewing audience.  While I’m not usually a fan of dousing myself with endless facades of fleur-de-lys-draped architecture, I still want to capitalize on the fact that none of the buildings here are crumbling concrete remnants of a bygone colonial era.

(Oops…did I just say that out loud?)

Sunday is a day that I typically reserve for my long slow run, and on this particular morning I went out for a nine mile jaunt that actually necessitated cold weather gear (yes!). Sundays, by the way, are an excellent opportunity to get out and exercise, because Paris is nice enough to block off the roads along the Seine and allow for lots of pedestrian elbow room. This makes me smile.

After my extended runs, I always try to make some effort to continue moving my legs, just so I don’t wake up on Monday morning feeling like a 34 year old Tin Man. So I did my run, ate an oatmeal breakfast, and then struck out in search of some heritage.

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First stop, a look inside the oldest restaurant in Paris, La Petite Chaise. It was founded in 1680 and is still serving up food….at least that’s their claim to fame…

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For Heritage Days, they had the entire upstairs closed off to diners so it would be open for general public perusal. At around 1pm I walked into a full restaurant and asked the barman what they had going on for the Journées du Patrimoine. He turned around and pointed at the stairs: go get your cultural fill up there.

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I walked upstairs and looked around. The place is kinda small…but apart from that, all it really looks like is a Parisian restaurant that could could double for grandma’s house. I kind of felt like I was in a Joyce novel. I stayed for about three whole minutes, and then set out for more impressive sites. Even though La Petite Chaise wasn’t terribly interesting, I kind of appreciated the quick and intellectually-undemanding aspect of this stop. Sometimes in life you just want an easy check in the box that sounds slightly more impressive than the reality.

Off to my next spot! My legs are feeling okay now that the lactic acid is moving about as I stroll around this most excellent city. A bit of Google homework prior to leaving the house let me know that a trip to see the Palais de Luxembourg was a worthwhile visit. Luckily for me, this area is not to far from La Petite Chaise.

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Ahh the Luxembourg Gardens. Who doesn’t love this place? I always imagine Sinéad O’Connor walking around in her Nothing Compares 2U video when I am here- especially in the winter time. Still, the building that anchors these gardens is much like the Hôtel de Ville- it’s something that is only usually appreciated from the exterior.

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Long lines to get indoors suggests that I chose wisely in picking this cultural activity. At least I hope so, I still wasn’t too jazzed at the payoff contained within the Hôtel de Lauzun, but this line seemed to be moving much quicker.
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I didn’t have to wait long before I was inside the courtyard and in possession of a very informative guidebook that traced my tour through the extensive property.

The Palais de Luxembourg was built in 1570 by a Duke named Francois de Luxembourg. It was sold in 1612 and transferred to Marie de Médicis, mother of King Louis XIII. This place has a long and storied history, and rather than me continue to translate the excellent booklet that accompanied my visit, I’m going to refer you to Wikipedia for further consultation. Because I’m that kind of lazy tourist.
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All of these great buildings commence with a trip up a grand staircase. I felt a bit underdressed in such an ornate enclosure, but at least I wasn’t donning safari shorts and a fanny pack, which seems to be a popular tourist uniform in this decidedly urban environment. God help me if I ever become one of those tourists…
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The library.  Yes, I’m a master of the obvious.
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Today the Palais is a governmental building where the chamber of parliament holds meetings for France’s 348 senators.

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This globe sits in the conference hall. Framing of this particular geolocation is of course intentional.

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Again, the conference hall. I am thinking that it could stand to have a bit more gold in here…

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And they have Napoleon I’s throne on display in the hall! Sadly, I could not sit down and try it out for myself. It dates from 1804, and is of course embroidered in gold. Gold threw up all over this building.

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This is the library annex. What is interesting about this room is that it served as the first museum (for paintings) that was open to the French public back in 1750.

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This room is called the Gold Book room. Marie de Medicis’s bust is overseeing all of this gold goldness. You can probably tell that my legs (and brain) are getting tired by this stage….

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Still, I’m always amazed that no detail was spared in these great buildings. My living room walls on their best days could never parallel the ceilings of France…

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The Clemenceau room. I liked this room best- and that’s because of this mosaic. It’s done by Jean Bazaine, the same guy who did the Cluny-Sorbonne metro stop. Not only did he keep his use of gold to a minimum, but he is a real master of his art.

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This was taken in the Marianne room. For those of you who are not closet francophiles, Marianne is synonymous with France.

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More embodiments of la femme. I love this.

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This was taken in an adjoining building- “Le Petit Luxembourg”. It’s the residence of the President of the Senate. You can probably guess why I was drawn to this tapestry.

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And there are fantastic views out to the garden. So green, so ornate…

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I will not apologize for my maritime bias as I snaked through the tour. This was in the Cabinet Director’s Office.

Okay, I took a bunch of other photos- but they don’t see to be worthy of blog recognition (either that or my attention span has since grown weary of cultural excess). After touring the buildings, I skipped across the gardens for a rare glimpse into the greenhouses that help make this expanse of vegetation possible.

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Behold, les serres. (See, you learned the word for greenhouses! You’re welcome).

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Not only do they grow plants from all over the world, but they are also cross breed plants to make their own creations- like this orchid. It’s spotted like a pink and yellow dalmatian. I can’t say that I would call this particular flower an aesthetic success…but then again, if Kim Jong-Il has his own flower named after him, I guess Luxembourg gets a pass for their efforts.

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I do love color, and this was definitely a great stop in on the heritage circuit. The lines may have necessitated some patience and standing around, but I was happy to witness some real live culture.

After 20 miles on my feet, my legs were certainly fatigued from a day that covered a good portion of the city. As I was leaving the Luxembourg Garden, I stumbled across a patisserie that had a short line leading outside. Having spent the better part of the day in some form of a line, I figured that I should continue  my streak and see what this was all about.

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I mean, when you combine sugar with long lines of French people, the result has to be good, right?

I asked the French girls behind me what we were waiting in line for (yes, I’m that kind of a person). They said that this place was one of the best patisseries in Paris. Nice.

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The name of this place is Pierre Hermé , and from everything that I saw, he makes exquisite pastries and macarons.

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If you remember me mentioning my Toothpaste Dilemma affliction from the previous posting, then you know that I have a really hard time deciding what to try when there is too much choix. In the end, I opted for an “absolutely caramel” macaron.

I will tell you that my macaron had no hope in the world of making it back to Montmartre. I gave it a taste, and it was absolutely sublime. The decidedly French confection was a fantastic payoff to a day of sightseeing that was already fantastic. Mmmm. I’m still thinking about it. I

feel incredibly fortunate to have been a part of Heritage Days here in Paris, and while there is still much for me to discover in this city- I have started to walk around with a sense that I am really learning these streets, and the contents of their buildings. 

It’s going to be very difficult for me to leave.