Yesterday morning I woke up from what is always the world’s best sleeping environment and was treated to this overhead view:
The proximity to the ceiling is correct in this shot. There is no way that I could hope to sit up and look around without banging my head on something painful.
The previous photo probably gave away where I was- but just in case- here’s the horizontal view.
The top rack: made infinitely more accessible by my God-given long legs. You can tell I’ve got the top bunk because I still refuse to make my bed- no matter where I am. The great thing about shipboard racks is that you just pull the curtain across and presto! you have a made bed.
And speaking of where I am, where am I?? And better yet, why would a person willingly put herself up in this kind of cramped accommodation when she didn’t absolutely have to be there?
Good question. I blame twisted
SWO nostalgia, an unpredictable Cape Verdean airline schedule and the simple fact that I do love being at sea.
Behold the mighty Coast Guard Cutter FORWARD. I have already documented her presence in these waters, but many of you might be wondering, “Why is our Coast Guard hanging out on the west coast of Africa?” Good question.
I’m going to be lazy and let you click on this link
here if you want to see what the good ship FORWARD has been up to, but suffice to say that she was in town as a part of African Maritime Law Enforcement Partnership program. I too was in Cape Verde to support this mission, and after completing my assigned duties and extracurricular activities in Cape Verde, I was itching to get back to Dakar. Unfortunately for me, I learned in a roundabout way that my flight back was canceled- and I had been rebooked on a flight the following day. Grrr.
Being the typical sailor that I am, I bitched to some of the excellent crew about my extended stay in Praia. One of the Chiefs heard this and mentioned to me that they were headed to Dakar for a brief stop- if I wanted, maybe I could catch a ride with them.
You can kind of see how this situation progressed.
Before I knew it, me and my luggage were embarking the tiny ship just before midnight with a boat full of drunken happy sailors returning from liberty. As I got to the top of the jacob’s ladder, the same Chief who offered me a lift to Dakar was standing there, on duty.
“Glad to have you sailing with us, Ma’am.” Chief said as he shook my hand and had two sailors take my stuff inside the skin of the ship. When I go to my assigned quarters, the rack was already made up and the Chief made sure that I was set for the transit. Such organization. I forgot what this was like. I was in heaven.
Even at anchor, the seas were fairly heavy. I tried to fall asleep, but the impressive pitching and rolling made it a bit hard for me to stay grounded on my mattress. It didn’t take too long for me to finally drift off, but at 2:47 I am awake again after hearing the ship’s intercom system. The announcement is made that the ship is dragging anchor, and that we’d be getting underway right then and there. I smile to myself, happy that I don’t have an assigned watch position, and then wonder how long it will take to get everyone manned up and on station.
As it turns out, not very long: at 3:07 the bos’n pipes underway and we are headed for Dakar. Twenty minutes. Nice work.
The wardroom of the FORWARD. Not only a place to eat meals and then run away à la junior officer. I watched several episodes of Mad Men with the officers and even played some
crazy board game with the Captain, XO and some others. The crew’s deployment might be winding down, but this particular space didn’t show many signs of hate and discontent.
There’s not much else to tell you about my transit. It was your typical underway routine- complete with some bonus rocking and rolling as the cutter negotiated heavy swells. I made sure that I capitalized on my environment by partaking in several quality post-meal naps. I know that I got some of the best sleep that I have had in years during that 30 hour underway period. I always sleep well when at sea.
One thing I will mention about my trip is that a lot of the crew has connections to New England. I suppose that this is natural, given the many Coast Guard stations littered throughout my part of the world. The ship’s doc- he is actually stationed at Otis Air National Guard Base- puts in hours at Falmouth Hospital, the very place where I was born. There were other fellow Massholes in the wardroom, and I loved having the opportunity to talk Bruins hockey while seated at the dinner table.
After a second overnight of great sleep, I woke up and looked out the wardroom’s porthole. Well actually, I had to look beyond these Jive Turkey Lego men- and then I could spot Dakar’s concretey skyline a few miles away. I was back in Senegal again.
Before things got crazy with the Sea and Anchor Detail (where the ship mans up in order to pull into port), I grabbed my old camera and took a walk around the weather decks. Here you can see images of marijuana leaves painted on the ship’s side- each one marking a certain amount of busts that the ship has made while out on patrol.
A quick walk up to the bridge where I try to stay out of the way of the Officer of the Deck. After spending an eternity so much quality time on the bridge, I don’t think I could ever linger for longer than I have to up there…
More happy snaps on the bridge. It was a calm, beautiful morning. A nice way to start my birthday.
Port side looking forward. I just wanted to shine the sun in your eyes some more.
My time on board was brief, and that morning I was to be sent ashore with the advance team. Lucky me, this meant one more bonus ride on the ship’s
RHIB.
I sat on the messdecks and waited for small boat operations to commence. As I’m sitting there and chatting with some sailors, I look around and see this sign on a door.
“Morale locker?” I ask, “What’s inside there?” The Petty Officer opens the door and he shows me all kinds of entertainment to pass the time- board games and stuff. I love this concept- and am thinking of making my own morale locker here in Dakar. This place just doesn’t feel like a Navy ship- and I mean that in a good way.
Soon the word is piped for us to head topside and get in the small boat. My bags are brought up to the weather decks and we wait for the RHIB to be lowered to the rails before hopping in. I’m ready to get back to Dakar, but also sad to be leaving this familiar environment behind.
As we’re lowered into the water I wave and mouth a thank you to the XO who is standing on the bridgewing. She waves back and before I know it we are pulling away and headed for West Africa. Back to Megan’s reality.
I am not sure how I managed to take this photo, because we’re miles from the beach and our boat crew is doing Drive-It-Like-You-Stole-It speeds. I cling tightly to the Oh Shit bar and try not to get bounced out of the boat- all the while grinning like a little kid who has just scored a golden ticket.
We literally zoom by Gorée Island, and I’m thinking to myself that this is probably the coolest way to start out my 34th year. Again, I blame my twisted SWO nostalgia, or brain damage, for this declaration. Or maybe I’m just getting soft in my old age.
Soon enough I am dumped off at the pier, and the boat crew takes off to rejoin its mother. Even though I’ve only been working with these guys for a week, I’ve been continually impressed by the skills and professionalism of this Coast Guard crew. It’s a breath of fresh air after inhabiting the logistically-challenging world of my current home.
Life back in Dakar is OPS normal. I got back to my house, worked out, made bread and did laundry. Senegal’s birthday present to me was that I got a pretty decent video Skype connection, and was thus able to both see and talk with my Dad and brother (a rarity, given my crappy internet connection). I don’t need to do anything remarkable on my birthday, but I will say that this was a pretty great day so far.
Postscript:
A few days ago, while wasting time in Praia, I took out a piece of paper and jotted down a quick list of ten things that I am grateful for. I think it’s good to do this from time to time, just to maintain some perspective. The list is nothing earth-shattering, but I think that since it’s my birthday I should share these things. After all, there is no way that I am getting through any more crazy-ass boat rides without the support of these people, and these things- all listed in no particular order:
La Reconnaissance (French for acknowledgment, or gratitude):
1. The love and support of my crazy family
2. My health- thank god I can run and also deliver sarcasm
3. My ability to continue traveling- military types and otherwise
4. My godson- I haven’t even met him yet and I already love him
5. My best friend and twin sister – she makes me want to be a better officer
6. My job that I actually enjoy – even on my “I hate my job” days
7. My love of writing – so glad my brain hasn’t deteriorated into a Fox News watching amoeba
8. My stubborn resiliency – I’m glad to be a pain in the ass
9. My work ethic – thanks Mom and Dad
10. Boston and the Cape – I am proud of my roots
10a. ALL of my friends, and all of you guys who are reading (I know I said ten things, but I’m a heavy tipper)
It was a pretty good day, so far.
