If you asked the average American what images are conjured up when they hear the word “Africa”, they’ll probably tell you village huts or wild game safaris. Ask most of them what they think of when they hear the word “Belfast”, and they’ll probably say terrorist attacks, sectarianism, and IRA. That’s the nature of well-trodden preconceptions: they tend to die hard.
Of course I never really thought of Belfast as a war zone. In fact, I don’t think really anyone ever thinks like that these days. Still, I wanted to do a posting on Belfast that would show the city in the light of 2011. It’s a period that is certainly different than the Belfast that I first saw back in 1997.
First, a quick train ride:
A pleasant two hours journey finds us in the Belfast train station. I like maps, and this particular one always strikes me as as extremely vocal. In contrast, you don’t see many maps generated by the Republic of Ireland (say weather maps, for example) that exclude the six counties of Northern Ireland- I think this is primarily because County Donegal would look a little bizarre sticking out all on its own. Others might have other theories.
Belfast today is a shiny, clean and modern city that has lots of shopping cultural allure. This is the lovely City Hall that was constructed back in 1906. I think they call it an Edwardian ‘wedding cake’. This is the second cake building I have visited in two weeks. Weird.
A cold day calls for a mug of hot soup and delicious brown bread (god did I miss scones and brown bread). This here is Bloody Mary soup- it’s hot and taste like the real thing. Vodka added for flavor. And the celery sticks taste just like the ones I’d crunch on at Bobby Byrne’s Pub back when I would go there with my aunt after Sunday Mass. She had the Bloody Mary, not me.
The Merchant Hotel, where we ducked in out of a rain shower to participate in a high brow afternoon tea break. This is the nicest place to stay in Belfast, and the interior is gorgeous.
You’ll have to take my word on the red velvet interior, but I can tell you that the tea spread is pretty fantastic. You should pop on in.
Behold one tradition that is near and dear to my heart. This is a view of Writer’s Square, a performance area in city center. The Irish hold their literary figures in high esteem (rightly so!), and Belfast has much to celebrate in this regard.
I don’t know how you can not be in inspired by this land. Belfast may be a city that moves at a slower clip than Dublin, but it’s easy to see how this place can move a pen across paper (or compel someone to take up arms in its defense).
Another tradition: many people might also know that Belfast is the city where RMS Titanic was constructed. Ulster has a proud and strong maritime history- these buoys are over fifty years old and sit in a park next to St. Anne’s Cathedral to mark this pillar of economic significance.
I really like modern art that blends in with city life- this one is the Monument to the Unknown Woman Worker (‘All women working in the home receive no direct wage’ is inscribed on one woman’s collarbone). The Irish have a fantastic tradition of making a point through blunt, yet understated means. Screaming is simply not required for impact.
And yes, the glorious pub culture is alive and well here. You just need to get some sterling pounds in order to pay for your pint.
And did I mention that fantastic locally brewed beer? If I had room in my suitcase, I’d be hauling a bunch of this back with me.
Belfast really does have a low key approach. That’s probably why I like it so much, and definitely why you need to get your arse up here and have a look around.
Also, I have to say that after a 13 year absence, Belfast is making a strong case for me to set some roots down here for a little while. It’s smaller than Dublin and has a pace of life that I could really get used to.
P.S. This is more pub quiz trivia knowledge, but I think you should know that the DeLorean was manufactured in Belfast- but I haven’t seen any driving around. Yet.