The Irish Fry

As soon as the oven door comes down, you know it’s on.

It’s the unmistakable start to a ritual that takes place in kitchens all across an island that sits on the fringes of the European continent. It’s a moment that perks up your eyes, spikes your taste buds, and lets you know that the remainder of your day has suddenly been sorted.

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This moment comes at the weekend, most notably following an evening where folks devote quality time to leaning against a bar and carrying back clusters of refreshment for friends who are gathered happily into a red velour snug. Who knows how many rounds this makes, because it doesn’t really matter! Are the Irish terribly worried about the hangover that may creep in on The Morning After? Heck no. They’ve got the Irish Fry.

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I’m a Yank, and while I’m lucky to have consumed lots of Irish cooking over the course of my life, I don’t profess to be an expert on this breakfast of champions. Are there components that must be included before it can be deemed a true Fry? Maybe the pork products, I suppose– but I’m not here to give an anthropological lesson on such matters. When my head is pounding and my stomach is empty,  I’m really not in the mood for any type of cultural discourse. All I know is that each household does theirs up according to their own specific tastes and dietary requirements.

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You don’t want a puddle of beans upsetting the greasy integrity on the rest of your plate? Then leave that tin of Heinz out of the equation. Are you gluten free? Well then pop by with a loaf of GF bread under your arm and that will replace the soda bread or warm potato farls that serve to sop up runny egg yokes and rasher grease. The carbs are deliciously critical!

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And while you’re at it, you might want to inspect that package of black pudding to ensure the oatmeal contained within is certified gluten free — and even if it isn’t, ah go on and have a bit anyway. Surely a healthy dose of pig blood will kill that gluten-tainted oatmeal for you. And besides, we’re after curing your hangover, so when it’s all said and done, you might as well fill your plate with a little bit of everything. Just to be on the safe side.

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Back to that oven door being left in the down position. I’ve seen some folks lovingly glug oil into a frying pan, and that’s where they cook their proteins. Most others, I see them form a quilt of pork products that are layered onto aluminum foil before it goes atop a tray and under the oven burner.  You leave the door down so that the ear can keep tabs on the sizzling as you turn your hands to other tasks that include (but are not limited to) egg preparation, tea brewing, child wrangling, and most probably the tossing of a few tomatoes onto a warm griddle. It would appear that in the symphony of making a four alarm breakfast, the Irish are bona fide maestros.

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And it really is a purely Irish phenomenon.  I am sure that here on the island directly east, they’ve got their own manner of heart clogging breakfast arrangements– but I will submit that the two are not the same. I have Irish friends exiled in London and even they come back from trips home with a packet or two of sausages in their carry on luggage. “Superquinn’s are the best!”  I’ve heard more than one Irish person proclaim. Me, I’ve had the ones from Superquinn, and they really are damn good.
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I will admit that in normal everyday life, my diet largely consists of vegan and vegetarian fare that my dad my terms “liberal” or “yuppie” food. However, there is something in my chemistry that seems to change each and every time I set foot on Ireland’s shores. Maybe it’s the gorgeous butter that obligingly slouches into the recesses of my toasted brown bread. Or perhaps it’s a poached egg that, coupled with my grilled half tomato, seems to make the entire repast vaguely virtuous. I can’t be certain, but somehow I don’t think it’s all purely about the food. There’s another key component that makes an Irish breakfast special.

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The Fry is not meant to be consumed while on the run. Rather, much like the act of meeting loved ones out for a pint, it’s an event that is meant to be shared. An equal component of the experience is the social aspect that involves digging into concerns of the day while mugs of lukewarm tea or coffee are cradled and hover over empty plates that won’t be cleared anytime soon. I love this breakfast not so much because the ingredients really do zap a morning after headache, but I love it for the banter and fellowship that is kinda the sober version of the night’s prior activities.

Unless of course you’re my college flatmate who once took us all home to Downpatrick and whipped up an entire Fry at 3AM after we got in from the pub. That too, was a decidedly awesome, and decidedly unsober, experience. To this day I still don’t know how she didn’t burn the entire house down in her intoxicated state. Maestros, I’m telling you.

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Just as with every trip, I’m very much looking forward to my next hop over to Ireland in a couple of weeks. The cuisine may not always be the most sophisticated or healthful (I’m talking to you, Aer Lingus Bia Onboard) but I can guarantee that whatever you do eat, the experience taken as a whole will be undeniably restorative.